Beneficial organisms & other pest control

<p>Beneficial organism against aphid infestation. In a pack of 500 pieces.</p> <p><em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Aphid lion is the nickname for the larva of the golden-eyed dragonfly, <em>Chrysoperla</em> .<em>&nbsp;</em>The larva lives up to its name as it is a really effective predator, with aphids as its main food. It is naturally occurring in Sweden and is very good at catching aphids. During its life cycle it can eat up to 600 of them. The aphid lion is used to advantage in cases of heavy infestations in a limited area, so-called "hot spots".</p> <p>It pinches the aphid between its cheekbones and sucks the aphid out. The nearest aphids are warned, and then fall off the plant. As this can make control more difficult, it is recommended to put a fine net around the plant, which keeps both aphids and aphid lions in place. The larva grows from 2-3 mm to about 1 cm during the 2 weeks that it eats aphids.</p> <p>Works best in low cultures.</p> <p>Delivered in packages of 500 in a small carton.</p> <p><strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>When receiving the delivery, the white protection on the cardboard box should be torn off. Gently tap the back so that the larvae fall out onto the plant. There is one larva in each compartment. If you are going to put them on different plants, only pull off part of the protection so that they do not all fall out onto the same plant.</p> <p>Should be put out immediately after receipt but can be stored for a few days at 8-10 degrees.</p>

<p> Californicus predatory mites in bags for preventive control of spider mites, 10 small bags.<br></p> <p><em></em> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> <em>Neoseiulus (Amblyseius) californicus</em> is a predatory mite used in the preventive control of spider mites. They are supplied in 10 small bags. These are hung out in the plants before, or when, spider mites are observed.</p> <p>Californicus is a 0.5mm large, transparent to light yellow predatory mite. It feeds, for example, on the common spider mite species, the greenhouse spider mite, which can affect both ornamental and vegetable plants.</p> <p> Californicus is a hardy predatory mite that can also survive on other mites and pollen. They are therefore well suited to use as a preventative against spider mites, as they can be released even before spider infestations are observed.</p> <p> Compared to the commonly used spider mite <a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/14-spinnkvalster/14-spinnrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><u><em>Phytoseiulus persimilis,</em></u></a> Californicus can handle a wider temperature range. They can be used at temperatures between 8 and 35°C, with an optimum of 20-33°C. They are also less sensitive to drier environments.</p> <p> Californicus is also used to control red spider mites, such as citrus and fruit tree mites, which the common spider mite does not attack.</p> <p>However, in the event of widespread infestation of greenhouse spider mites, it is recommended<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/14-spinnkvalster/14-spinnrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><em><u>spider mite</u></em></a> ( <em>Phytoseiulus persimilis),</em> which is then more effective.<em></em></p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> It is advisable to plant Californicus early in the growing season (in greenhouses in May/June) before the spider mites become too established.</p> <p> The bags are hung on the plant, on branches or leaf stalks. Use 1 bag per plant, or about 2-3 bags/m² .</p> <p> The predatory mites will get out of the bag and up over the plant. The bags will last 4-6 weeks. The bag does not need to be perforated further, it has small holes where the mites can come out.</p> <p> Avoid the bag coming into contact with the soil and hang it out of direct sunlight.</p> <p> The predatory mites should be released immediately after receipt, but can be stored for a couple of days at 15 degrees.</p>

<p>Fragrance for catching raspberries in the berry orchard. 1 capsule for use in a raspberry trap.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> Raspberry meadows<span> </span><em>(Byturus tomentosus)</em><span> </span>can cause great damage to raspberries and blackberries. The adult beetle overwinters in the soil and wakes up in April. It then feeds on leaves, buds and pollen. When the temperature rises to 12-15 degrees, it begins to lay eggs in the raspberry flowers. The larva hatches and feeds on the ripe berries. It hides inside the berry, which makes it difficult to detect before the berry is picked.</p> <p> The trap has two ways of attracting raspberry flies:</p> <p> 1. The trap looks like a large raspberry flower with white crossed “wings”, and is designed to attract the raspberry weevil. When the raspberry weevil flies into the crossed white “wings”, they fall into a funnel and underneath it is a container of soapy water that prevents the raspberry weevil from getting out.</p> <p>2. It contains a scent that attracts the raspberry moth. To ensure a good catch, the specific scent for raspberry moths should be added to a special container on top of the trap.</p> <p> The trap comes with 1 capsule of fragrance and a special net to cover the funnel, so that bumblebees and bees do not fall down and get caught.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong> The trap should be hung 4-6 weeks before flowering (April-May). It should be hung 1-1.5 meters above the ground. Fill with water and a few drops of soap or washing-up liquid. Clean up around the trap so that it is clearly visible and easily accessible.</p> <p> The raspberry leafhopper can also attack early autumn raspberries. Remember to buy extra fragrance for this period, so you have full good coverage.</p> <p> One trap covers an area of ​​up to 250 m ² .</p>

<p> Pheromone trap for recording apple borers, 1 pc.</p> <p><em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> The pheromone trap is used for recording apple moths. The traps are delivered with 1 delta trap together with 3 adhesive discs, 1 metal hanging wire and 2 pheromone capsules.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> Place the pheromone capsule on the adhesive disc in the trap. Hang the trap so that the scent can easily spread.</p> <p> Please note that the pheromone capsule should be replaced every six weeks.</p> <p> The pheromone capsule is stored in the freezer or refrigerator.</p>

<p> Pheromone trap for registering plum borers, 1 pc.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> The pheromone trap is used for recording plum curlers. The traps are delivered with 1 delta trap together with 3 adhesive discs, 1 metal hanging wire and 2 pheromone capsules.</p> <p><strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong> Place the pheromone capsule on the adhesive disc in the trap. Hang the trap so that the scent can easily spread.</p> <p> Please note that the pheromone capsule should be replaced every six weeks.</p> <p> Pheromone capsules are stored in the freezer or refrigerator.</p>

<p> Adhesive discs for registering pests, 10 or 25 pieces.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>When using biological control, it is very important to register the first pests in the greenhouse. The sooner you can see which pest is attacking, the sooner you can order beneficial insects to start the control. These yellow sticky discs are used specifically for registering and capturing leaf miners, midges, thrips, aphids and more.</p> <p> The yellow adhesive discs are hung where the pests and plants are, for example between the plants or on a flower stick in the pot. Available in packs of 10 or 25 adhesive discs.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> The yellow side with glue is turned outwards when installed, after which the protective paper is removed. The pests are attracted to the yellow color and then stick to the glue. Replace them often, especially if many pests stick to the disc. Examine your adhesive discs with a magnifying glass or under a microscope to find out what pests you have in your greenhouse.</p>

<p> Trap with scent (kairomone) to catch raspberry flies in the berry orchard. In a package of 1 trap including scent 1 capsule.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Raspberry meadows<span> </span><em>(Byturus tomentosus)</em><span> </span>can cause great damage to raspberries and blackberries. The adult beetle overwinters in the soil and wakes up in April. It then feeds on leaves, buds and pollen. When the temperature rises to 12-15 degrees, it begins to lay eggs in the raspberry flowers. The larva hatches and feeds on the ripe berries. It hides inside the berry, which makes it difficult to detect before the berry is picked.</p> <p> The trap has two ways of attracting raspberry flies:</p> <p> 1. The trap looks like a large raspberry flower with white crossed “wings”, and is designed to attract the raspberry weevil. When the raspberry weevil flies into the crossed white “wings”, they fall into a funnel and underneath it is a container of soapy water that prevents the raspberry weevil from getting out.</p> <p>2. It contains a scent that attracts the raspberry moth. To ensure a good catch, the specific scent for raspberry moths should be added to a special container on top of the trap.</p> <p> The trap comes with 1 capsule of fragrance and a special net to cover the funnel, so that bumblebees and bees do not fall down and get caught.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong> The trap should be hung 4-6 weeks before flowering (April-May). It should be hung 1-1.5 meters above the ground. Fill with water and a few drops of soap or washing-up liquid. Clean up around the trap so that it is clearly visible and easily accessible.</p> <p> The raspberry leafhopper can also attack early autumn raspberries. Remember to buy extra fragrance for this period, so you have full good coverage.</p> <p> One trap covers an area of ​​up to 250 ^m2</p>

<p> Omnivorous beneficial animals for soil-dwelling pests such as sandflies, water flies and thrips species. 2500 pieces or 25000 pieces.</p> <p> <em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Ground-dwelling mites,<span> </span><em>Hypoaspis</em> is a small beneficial insect that lives in and on the soil. As an adult, it is about 1 mm long and brown in color. It feeds on many different pests that have one or more stages in the soil, such as gnats, water flies, thrips, chicken mites and collembolans (springtails). Both adults and nymphs are active in pest control. The soil-dwelling mite is fast and works actively already when released, but since it only fights pests in the soil, it can take a few weeks before the effect is noticeable. 2500 soil-dwelling mites are enough for up to 10 m ² .</p> <p> The soil-dwelling mite will remain in the houseplant as long as there is food, but it will die out as soon as the food supply disappears for an extended period, or if the soil dries out significantly.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>The animals should be released immediately after reception, where control is desired. They can be used year-round at temperatures above 15 degrees. They thrive best in temperatures between 15 and 30 degrees.<span> </span><em>Please note that they cannot withstand temperatures below 12 degrees</em> .</p> <p> If necessary, they can be stored for a shorter period before being released at a temperature of around 15 degrees.</p> <p> The variants of the product contain either 2500 pieces or 25000 pieces of Hypoaspis.</p>

<p> Biological product against butterfly larvae in vegetable, berry, fruit and ornamental crops. Package of 30 grams.</p> <p> <span><strong>LARV protection</strong> is a biological product that is effective against butterfly larvae in crops of vegetables, berries, fruit and ornamental plants; for example, cabbage moth, cabbage butterfly, vegetable fly, frost butterfly, bird spider moth and fruit peeler.</span></p> <p><span>LAR</span> Vskydd contains the naturally occurring bacteria<span> </span><em>Bacillus thuringiensis</em><span> </span>which acts in the larva's digestive tract after the larva has eaten treated leaves and other plant parts. LARVA protection is effective against all types of butterfly larvae.</p> <p> <strong>Butterfly larvae can be identified by a few characteristics:</strong></p> <p> - All butterfly larvae have a head, biting mouthparts and 3 pairs of thoraxes.</p> <p> - On the hind body segments they also have short, soft so-called abdominal feet that resemble suction cups. The last pair of abdominal feet are sometimes called anal feet.</p> <p> - Butterfly larvae usually have five pairs of legs (including the anal feet). Within the family of moths, larvae have only two pairs of legs. In mining butterfly larvae, the legs are usually very small and can sometimes be missing.</p> <p> - If the caterpillar has 6 or more pairs of legs, it is a plant mite, and must be controlled in other ways, for example with a natural pyrethroid.</p> <p> <strong>Use</strong></p> <p><strong></strong>When treating, it is important that the entire plant is covered with spray liquid so that the larva easily comes into contact with the product. The best effect is obtained if LARVA protection is used against small larvae. The larvae stop eating after a couple of hours and die after a couple of days. Larvae that are unprotected on the plant are the easiest to treat. Those that spin themselves, crawl into buds or fruits are difficult to treat.</p> <p> Avoid using LARVA protection in sunlight as the product is broken down by sunlight. Spray in dry weather. Rain and irrigation will wash off the product. At temperatures below 12–15 °C, the effect of LARVA protection is reduced as butterfly larvae become less active. It may take up to 2–5 days after treatment for the larvae to die. The treatment may need to be repeated, with at least 7 days between each treatment.</p>

<p><meta charset="utf-8"> <span>NEMAblom - Nematodes Against Mourning Midges: one package is enough for an area of ​​20 m², or about 20 pots.</span> <meta charset="utf-8">Larger areas are best irrigated using the <a title="Birchmeier AquaNemix 1.25V - for spreading nematodes" href="https://tradgardsdags.nu/products/birchmeier-aquanemix-1-25v-for-spridning-av-nematoder" target="_blank"><strong><span style="color: #4e991d;">AquaNemix</span></strong></a> nematode spreader.<strong></strong></p> <p><em>In stock: if the order is received before Sunday, the item will be shipped the following Monday.</em></p> <p><strong>NEMAblom – A biological pest control</strong></p> <p class="p1"><span class="s1">NemaBlom offers an effective and non-toxic solution containing 1.3 - 1.5 million nematodes. These microscopic soldiers <i>actively</i> seek out and attack the larvae of the black widow spider in the soil. By preventing the larvae from developing into mosquitoes and laying eggs, NemaBlom typically eradicates the black widow spider population in just over 1 week. With each attack, a new generation of nematodes is created in the soil, ensuring continuous and long-lasting protection.</span></p> <p class="p1"><span class="s1">NemaBlom is based on the nematode Steinernema feltiae, an effective biological control agent for various pests. It can be used against infestations of:</span></p> <ul> <li>Mourning mosquitoes</li> <li>Harkness</li> <li>Flower thrips</li> <li>Miners, especially in smaller greenhouses and vegetable production<br><br></li> </ul> <p><strong>Sustainable and long-term protection solution</strong></p> <p>The nematodes in the resting stage, which corresponds to their condition when purchased, can lie dormant in the soil and wait for new midge larvae, provided that the soil is not allowed to dry out. In this way, NemaBlom provides long-term and reliable protection against midge larvae.</p> <p><strong>Product storage and durability</strong></p> <p>NemaBlom has a shelf life of 1 year from the date of production if the package is kept cool (but not below freezing). At room temperature, the package will last about 3 months. Resealed packaging retains its shelf life even if it has been opened. Note that nematodes are sensitive to sunlight, dehydration, temperatures below 0°C and above +30°C.</p> <p>Since the cold chain is broken upon delivery, it is recommended that you use the product as soon as possible after receipt.</p> <p><strong>How does it work?</strong></p> <p>The nematodes move freely in the soil and actively seek out their hosts by following substances secreted by the larvae. They attack the larvae through natural body openings, which leads to their rapid death. The nematodes multiply inside the larva, and after about 10 days a new generation of nematodes disperses to seek out and fight new larvae.</p> <p>NemaBlom can also be used preventively, as the nematodes can survive in the soil for up to 1 year.</p> <p><meta charset="utf-8"> The nematodes in NemaBlom do not affect plants, other animals or humans.</p> <p><strong>Dosage</strong></p> <p>One package of NemaBlom is enough for approximately 20 pots or 2 square meters of land.</p>

<p> NEMAmulti® biological agent for controlling larvae of several types. <meta charset="utf-8">NEMAmulti is sufficient for approximately 50 m². Larger areas can be irrigated with the help of <a href="https://tradgardsdags.nu/products/birchmeier-aquanemix-1-25v-for-spridning-av-nematoder" title="Birchmeier AquaNemix 1.25V - for spreading nematodes" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><strong><span style="color: rgb(78, 153, 29);">the AquaNemix</span></strong></a> nematode spreader.</p> <p> NEMAmulti<meta charset="utf-8"> ® is an effective agent against several types of larvae that contains 10 million live microorganisms, nematodes, which actively seek out specific larvae and kill them.</p> <p> Larvae of cabbage butterfly, gooseberry weevil, carrot fly, cabbage moth, rose petal weevil, apple weevil, sedge weevil, ear weevil and rowanberry weevil are some examples of host animals attacked by these nematodes.</p> <p> NEMAmulti is a biological non-toxic agent for those who want to grow non-toxic but need help getting rid of larvae that cause damage in your garden using nature's own method.</p> <p>These insect-parasitic nematodes actively attack specific larvae that are their host animals. They are completely harmless to children, bees and other animals and can never harm plants.</p> <p> <strong>How do you get rid of larvae?</strong></p> <p> To get rid of larvae that attack the leaves, water/shower nematode solution onto the leaves. To get rid of larvae that attack the roots, water them into the soil.</p> <p> NEMAmulti should be used when there are larvae to parasitize. The nematodes must get close to their host animal, the larva, and when treating above ground, the foliage should be wet beforehand.</p> <p> Nematodes need about +12–13 degrees for them to be active. At lower temperatures they lie inactive until it gets warm enough again.</p> <p> It is also important to choose an overcast, rainy day or evening so that the nematodes have time to enter the larvae.</p> <p> Treated soil should be kept moist after the nematodes have been watered out for a few weeks to get the best effect.</p> <p> <strong>The life cycle of nematodes</strong></p> <p>Nematodes actively enter the pest larvae through natural body openings and a process begins that kills the larva and turns it into a “nursery” for the nematodes. After a while, a new generation of nematodes has developed and comes out into the soil. The new nematodes actively search for new larvae that are host animals. This cycle continues as long as there are larvae in the soil. If there are no larvae to parasitize, the nematodes are in the same resting stage as when they are in an unopened package in the refrigerator, waiting to be used. The nematodes leave the resting stage as soon as they sense that there are host animals nearby and actively try to get inside the larva to reproduce. As long as the soil is kept moist, they can remain in the resting stage, how long is impossible to say and the nematodes gradually die off if they do not come into contact with any host animals.</p> <p> <strong>Good advice for nematode eradication</strong></p> <p>A garden sprayer of about 5 liters works well if the nozzle is set so open that a shower is formed, not so closed that it becomes a mist, because then the nematodes will be damaged.</p> <p> A watering can with a mesh that is not too tight also works well. Most watering cans have a mesh that allows the nematodes to pass through without any problems.</p> <p> AquaNemix is ​​connected to the garden hose and doses the nematodes with water directly from the tap.</p> <p> Important! Nematodes die at 30 degrees, do not order if it is or risks becoming very hot and sunny.</p> <p> Pick up the package as soon as possible when it arrives at your Post Office.</p> <p> NEMAmulti should be stored in the refrigerator, the shelf life is about one month, see date stamp.</p>

<p><meta charset="utf-8"> <span>NEMAsnigel® - Nematodes Against Snails: 2 sizes of packages with approximately 12 or 30 million nematodes, sufficient for an area of ​​40 or 100 m².<meta charset="utf-8"> Larger areas are best irrigated using the <a href="https://tradgardsdags.nu/products/birchmeier-aquanemix-1-25v-for-spridning-av-nematoder" title="Birchmeier AquaNemix 1.25V - for spreading nematodes" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><strong><span style="color: rgb(78, 153, 29);">AquaNemix</span></strong></a> nematode spreader.</span><br><br> NEMAsnigel® is a biological and effective agent in the fight against killer slugs.<br><br> <strong>Get rid of both large and small snails</strong><br><br> <span>Nematodes against snails are a biological means of getting rid of snails. The nematodes enter the snails through their natural body openings, where they then parasitize and use them as a "nursery", which leads to the snail dying and the nematodes multiplying.</span><br> <br><span>There is no "best treatment time" to use this product against snails because a snail can lay up to 400 eggs from spring to autumn. A good way to get rid of snails when using nematodes is low pressure, preferably in combination with rain, as both nematodes and snails thrive best in moist environments.</span><br><br> <span>Once the number of nematodes has decreased, a new generation emerges from the parasitized snail and searches for new hosts. After about six weeks, the number of nematodes will decrease if the number of host snails also decreases.</span><br><br> <strong>How to use NEMAsnigel®</strong><br><span></span></p> <p> <span><strong>Get rid of young snails:</strong></span></p> <p><meta charset="utf-8"> <span>The nematodes are watered into the soil to parasitize young snails that are still underground. This method results in fewer young individuals having the chance to lay eggs per season</span> , which is otherwise about 400 per season and snail.</p> <p> <strong>Get rid of adult snails:</strong></p> <p>Offer the adult snails something they like, mixed with nematodes, and the nematodes will enter the snails directly. Porridge that has cooled and mixed with nematodes and something attractive to the snails, such as beer, citrus fruits, dead snails or bananas, works well. The porridge forms a protective film that protects the nematodes from drying out. Place in appropriate quantities in shady places.</p> <p> Feel free to combine these methods to get the most out of NEMA snails.</p> <p> <strong>Additional Treatment Advice</strong></p> <p> The nematodes should be dissolved in water. Start by making a concentrate which is then diluted with plain water to the amount of solution needed to water the surface to be treated.</p> <p> First, remove some of the packaging or concentrate for “snail porridge” if you want to use that method. The rest of the nematodes are further diluted so that there is enough for the area to be treated.</p> <p>Avoid watering the nematodes when it is hot and sunny. A rainy day, early morning or evening is recommended.</p> <p> A regular watering can can be used, but on some watering cans the spout can become clogged and you need to drill the holes out a bit.</p> <p> AquaNemix is ​​a very good tool. AquaNemix is ​​connected directly to the water hose and doses the nematodes from the container on the handle.</p> <p> A garden sprayer or degreasing sprayer that usually holds about 5 liters can also be used. It is important that the nozzle on the sprayer is so open that it becomes a shower and not a mist. If the nozzle is so closed that it becomes a mist, it is so cramped that the nematodes are damaged. Water thoroughly so that the nematodes get down properly into the soil.</p>

<p> Nematodes to control grasshopper larvae in the lawn. For outdoor use. In packages of 50 million or 250 million.<br></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> In the case of problems with damage to the lawn caused by grasshopper larvae, nematodes are used as biological control. Nematodes are microscopic roundworms that are watered over the area you want to treat. They are sold in packages of 50 million or 250 million nematodes, where the smaller one is enough to treat 50-100 m² of area and the larger one to 300-500 m². .</p> <p>Marsh thorn,<span> </span><em>Tipula paludosa,</em> is common in Sweden. The adults hatch at the end of July and swarm on the lawn until about mid-September. During this period, egg laying takes place. Each female can lay 300-400 eggs in the grass. The eggs hatch about 14 days after they are laid, i.e. in August-September. The young larvae then crawl under the roots of the grass plants, where they begin to gnaw on fresh root tips. The larvae overwinter in the soil and usually do not cause visible damage until the following spring. Then they grow large, to a length of 3-4 cm, and have a very high need for food.</p> <p>The infestation is recognized by the grass dying or not having time to grow back. By examining the grass roots, you can detect a fringed gnaw there. In case of heavy infestations in the spring, gnaws can also appear on the leaves. Often, the infestation is also visible when birds discover the larvae and systematically start turning the grass over with their beaks to get to them and eat them.</p> <p> When the nematodes are watered into the soil, they actively search for a suitable host in the form of a sedge caterpillar. They penetrate it and infect it. Bacteria from the nematodes kill the caterpillar. The nematodes multiply inside the infected caterpillar, and then leave it to search for new larvae.</p> <p> <strong>Treatment times</strong></p> <p> <u><em>Plan your first treatment approximately 2-3 weeks after your flight.</em><span> </span></u><em><u>of adult harriers have been observed</u></em> over the grass<em><span> </span></em>(=egg laying), this is usually in<span> </span><u><em>August/September</em></u> .</p> <p>Nematodes can mainly control the small, newly hatched larval stages of the hogweed. Since nematodes also depend on soil heat to work, they are most effective for a short period. This is in the fall, until early September.</p> <p> The following spring, the larvae are often too large for the nematodes to effectively control them. Treatment can also be carried out in the spring at soil temperatures above 8°C, but then a reduced effect can be expected.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong> The contents of the bag are dissolved in water while stirring, and then watered over the surface. Use the solution with the nematodes immediately after mixing.</p> <p>Use the nematodes only during the appropriate treatment period to achieve an effective result. The treatment is mainly effective against the smaller larval stages of the sedge weevil.<span> </span><u><em>Optimal soil temperature is above 12 degrees for four weeks after treatment</em></u><span> </span>to ensure that the nematodes are active. At lower temperatures, or larger larval stages, a reduced effect can be expected.</p> <p> As the nematodes live in the water film between the soil particles, it is important that the soil is kept moist during treatment. If the treatment surface is dry, it is watered preventively before treatment. Also water after treatment to thoroughly rinse the nematodes into the soil. The surface should then be kept moist for at least two weeks after treatment.</p> <p> Treatment should not be carried out during heavy rain as there is a risk of washing away the nematodes.</p> <p> The nematodes should be watered out early in the morning, in the evening or on a cloudy day, as they are sensitive to UV light.<br></p> <p> <em>Tip!</em> <br>For easier deployment, please use a<span> </span><em><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/26-tillbehor/44-nematodutvattnare/" target="_blank"><u>nematode dewaterer</u></a></em> !</p>

<p> Beneficial animal for controlling ear weevil larvae. For outdoor use. In packages of 10 million or 50 million.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Nematodes<span> </span><em>(Heterorhabditis sp.)</em><span> </span>Supplied in quantities of 10 million or 50 million in a mixture of fine clay. Nematodes, also known as roundworms, are microscopically small. They are found naturally in the soil, but usually not in large enough numbers.</p> <p> After watering the product, the nematodes actively search the soil for earwig larvae. When a larva is found, it is infected by nematodes and dies. Infected larvae turn ochre. The dead larva then acts as a kind of “envelope” in which the nematodes reproduce. These nematodes can only live on insect larvae and therefore do not harm plants.</p> <p> <strong>Treatment times</strong></p> <p>Since only the larval stages of ear weevil are infected by the nematodes, it is important to coordinate the timing of treatment with the ear weevil larval life cycle. In the garden and other treatment areas, treatment can be done in<span> </span><u><em>May/June<span> </span></em></u>as well as in<span> </span><em><u>August/September</u></em> .</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> <em><u>Use at a soil temperature between 12 and 25°C for effective treatment.</u></em></p> <p><strong></strong> The contents of the bag are dissolved in water and watered onto the soil near the affected plants. The soil should be kept slightly moist for a week after treatment.</p> <p> 10 million is enough for a treatment of approximately 10-20 m² , and 50 million to approximately 50-100 m² .</p> <p> <strong>Follow the fight</strong></p> <p>The control of ear weevil larvae is very effective, but as the adult weevils can live for over a year, eggs will continue to be produced during the first year. Therefore, collect any adult ear weevils at night with the help of a lantern, and follow the control in the soil. 2-3 weeks after the treatment, you should be able to find dead brown larvae along the roots of the plant.</p> <p> <em>Tip!</em><br> For easier deployment, please use a<span> </span><em><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/26-tillbehor/44-nematodutvattnare/" target="_blank"><u>nematode dewaterer</u></a></em> !</p>

<p> Beneficial insects for controlling the larvae of the black widow mosquito, 10 million or 50 million pcs.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Nematodes, also known as roundworms, are microscopically small. After the product is watered down, the nematodes actively search for blackleg larvae in the soil. The larvae are infected by the nematodes and die. The dead larva acts as a “shell” in which the nematodes can reproduce. These nematodes can only live on insect larvae and therefore do not harm plants. The nematodes are supplied in quantities of 10 million or 50 million in a mixture of fine clay.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> The contents of the bag are dissolved in water and watered onto the potting soil. All plants in the same space where the infestation was found should be treated. The soil should be kept slightly moist for a week after treatment.</p> <p> The best effect is achieved at a soil temperature of 20-25 degrees.</p> <p> 10 million is enough to treat 10-20 large pots or an area of ​​10-20 m². . 50 million is enough for about 50-100 m² .</p> <p> <strong>Follow the treatment</strong></p> <p>The nematodes only control the larval stages in the soil. Therefore, there is no immediate reduction in the number of adult mosquitoes until after 2-3 weeks when the next generation of mosquitoes in the soil is controlled. By also hanging yellow sticky discs, the adult mosquito can be caught and a faster effect can be achieved.</p>

<p> Beneficial animal for controlling garden beetle larvae in the lawn. For outdoor use. In packages of 50 million or 250 million.<br></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> Garden borer larvae,<span> </span><em>Phyllopertha horticola</em> , can cause significant damage to lawns. However, they can be controlled with the help of nematodes, microscopic roundworms, which are watered over the lawn surface. They are sold in packages of 50 million or 250 million nematodes, which is enough to treat 50-100 m² or 300-500 m² of area respectively.</p> <p>The adult garden borers are usually seen during May-June, and only for a short period, when they lay their eggs in the grass. Characteristic of the garden borer is that it flies low over the grass, on sunny mornings. The eggs that are laid begin to hatch from June onwards. It is the larvae that do the damage to the lawn, as they eat the roots of the grass. They grow during the season and overwinter in the soil. The following spring they pupate into a new generation of adult garden borers.</p> <p> The garden borer larvae feed on the roots of the grass near the surface. The grass becomes dry and yellowish and may begin to loosen from the soil surface. The larvae also attract birds and other animals, which can also destroy the lawn as they root around in the grass to find food.</p> <p>When the nematodes are watered into the soil, they actively search for a suitable host in the form of a garden borer larva. They penetrate it and infect it. Bacteria from the nematodes kill the larva. The nematodes multiply inside the infected larva, and then leave it to search for new larvae.</p> <p> <strong>Treatment times</strong></p> <p> <em><u>The optimal time for treatment is from late July to mid-September</u></em> . During this period, the larvae are small and close to the surface at the grass roots.<span> </span><em><u>Treat approximately 4 weeks after observation of the adult insects</u></em> , to catch the first larvae when the eggs hatch.</p> <p> Nematodes can primarily control the small, newly hatched larval stages of garden borers. Since nematodes also depend on soil heat to work, they are most effective for a shorter period during the summer and early fall.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong>The contents of the bag are dissolved in water while stirring, and then watered over the surface. Use the solution with the nematodes immediately after mixing.</p> <p> Use the nematodes only during the appropriate treatment period to achieve an effective result. The treatment is mainly effective against the smaller larval stages of the garden borer.<span> </span><em><u>Optimal soil temperature is above 12 degrees for four weeks after treatment to ensure that the nematodes are active</u></em> . At lower temperatures, or larger larval stages, a reduced effect can be expected.</p> <p> As the nematodes live in the water film between the soil particles, it is important that the soil is kept moist during treatment. If the treatment surface is dry, it is watered preventively before treatment. Also water after treatment to thoroughly rinse the nematodes into the soil. The surface should then be kept moist for at least two weeks after treatment.</p> <p>Treatment should not be carried out during heavy rain as there is a risk of washing away the nematodes.</p> <p> The nematodes should be watered out early in the morning, in the evening or on a cloudy day, as they are sensitive to UV light.<br></p> <p> <em>Tip!</em><br> For easier deployment, please use a<span> </span><em><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/26-tillbehor/44-nematodutvattnare/" target="_blank"><u>nematode dewaterer</u></a></em> !</p>

<p> Beneficial animal against infestation by the false scale insect, <em>Coccus hesperidum.</em> The parasitic tick is not effective against other scale insect species, so it is important to determine the species of scale insect causing the infestation. In a pack of 25 pieces.</p> <p> <em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em><br><br> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Scale infestations can be difficult to control. It is not always easy to spot scale insects as they are stuck in one place. Their colour can blend in well with the plant and hide on stems and leaf veins. The first sign of infestation is often the honeydew secreted by the scale insects. It leaves a sticky film on and around the plant, for example on the window or window sill. In the honeydew, sooty mold fungi can easily grow, which gives the plant a black coating. Scale insects suck plant sap, like other lice. The infestation can lead to discoloured leaves and stunted growth.</p> <p>Scale insects, unlike aphids, are immobile for almost their entire life. As small larvae, they find a suitable place on the plant where they then suck their food. Characteristic for them is the "shield" they have over their body. It protects and makes them difficult to fight. Under the shield, the female can lay up to thousands of eggs. The larvae then crawl out to find their own places on the plant to attach themselves to.</p> <p> There are many different species of scale insects. They can be divided into "true scale insects" and "false scale insects". The different groups are distinguished by the fact that the true scale insects have an external shield that can be removed from the body. The false scale insects do not have an external shield, instead their dorsal skin grows and hardens, forming a shield. This is attached to the louse and cannot be removed from the body.</p> <p><em>When biologically controlling scale insects, it is very important to determine which species of scale insect is causing the infestation. The beneficial insects are host-specific and will not parasitize any species other than the one they are adapted to.</em></p> <p> One of the most common scale species on houseplants is the orange wax scale,<span> </span><em>Coccus hesperidum,</em> a so-called false scale. The "shield" is yellowish-brown transparent, often with a darker "H"-like pattern in color. It is flat and asymmetrically oval, about 3-5 mm in size. It is often located near leaf veins, but can also be found on leaf stalks and young shoots. This species generally secretes a lot of honeydew. Examples of plants it attacks are citrus plants, ivy, ficus, laurel and camellia. The host plants are often woody.</p> <p>For biological control of the orange wax scale,<span> </span><em>Coccus hesperidum</em> , the parasitic wasp <em>Microterys</em> is used<span> </span><em>flavus</em> / <em>nietneri</em> . It is an approximately 2 mm long stingray with a yellowish/brownish body and black and white striped antennae.</p> <p> The wasp lays eggs inside the scale insect, and the larva lives there for all five larval stages. As an adult, it then eats its way out of the scale insect through a small round hole, which can be seen from above if you look closely. The wasp lays about 10 eggs a day, during the two months that are their maximum lifespan. The adult wasps also eat the scale insect, a process known as host feeding.<span> </span><em>Microterys</em> actively seeks out scale insects on infested plants. It takes middle and older stages of the orange wax scale insect.</p> <p>When<span> </span><em>Microterys</em><span> </span>is only effective against the orange wax scale, <em>Coccus hesperidum</em> , it is very important to identify the species of scale infesting your plants. If it is a different species of scale, <em>Microterys</em> will not be effective.<span> </span></p> <p><b>User manual</b></p> <p> To<span> </span>To be able to combat <em>Microterys</em> effectively, certain conditions need to be met.</p> <p> Release should only take place between March and October. The parasitic wasp needs a long day, meaning that the day consists of more light hours than dark hours.</p> <p> For the stingray to be active, a temperature of at least 20 degrees is required. Temperature has a major impact on the stingray's development time. At 25°C, development from egg to adult takes about 23 days.</p> <p> Recommended dosage is 5-10 pieces/plant. Treatment is done 1-2 times, two weeks apart.</p> <p>The package is opened at the infested plants, the stingers seek out the scale insects themselves.</p> <p> Treat all plants that have had contact with the infested plant. For example, all those that have been in the same window. Thoroughly wash the surface where the infested plant has been, such as the windowsill and window.</p> <p> <strong>Follow the treatment</strong></p> <p> It may be difficult to see a clear effect of the treatment, as the scale insects still remain on the plant after<span> </span><em>Microterys</em><span> </span>has parasitized it. After 10-14 days (depending on temperature), a dark ring can be distinguished on closer observation under the "shield" of the aphid. These are the excrement of the parasitic scale, which then indicates that the scale has become parasitized. At a later stage, the exit hole from the adult parasitic scale can also be discovered as a small, round hole in the "shield". In the event of successful treatment, the new shoots and petioles that are formed should be free from infestation.</p>

<p> Predatory mites against dark red citrus and fruit tree mites ( <em>Panonychus</em> sp.), 5000 pieces.</p> <p><em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> Californicus predatory mites are the first choice against the dark red Citrus and fruit tree mites ( <em>Panonychus sp.</em> ) in citrus, ficus, peach, apple, etc. The common spider mite ( <em>Phytoseiulus persimilis</em> ) does not work against this type of mite.</p> <p>Californicus also has an effect on common spider mites ( <em>Tetranychus</em> ) and can be used preventively before an infestation is observed, as it can live for a longer period without food than common spider mites ( <em>Phytoseiulus persimilis</em> ). Once an infestation of common spider mites has been established, it works<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/14-spinnkvalster/14-spinnrovkvalster/" data-mce-href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/14-spinnkvalster/14-spinnrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><em><u>spider mite</u></em></a><span> </span>better, because they have an easier time moving in the threads of the web than the Californicus predatory mites.</p> <p> Use a magnifying glass to identify whether you are infested with citrus mites or common greenhouse spider mites before ordering.</p> <p> Predatory mites are effective at temperatures between 12-38 °C but work best at 18-33 °C. They can tolerate cold nights down to 3-4 °C but are not active at these temperatures.</p> <p>The product is delivered in packs of 5000 pieces.</p>

<p>Beneficial animal against mealybug/"white fly" infestation, in packs of 500 or 1000 pieces.</p> <p> <em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em> </p> <div class="modules m-product trailing-trip" data-controller="9"> <div class="m-product m-product-additional-info"> <div class="toggle-content t-panel-clean m-product-additional-info-content"> <div class="pane active m-product-additional-info description clearfix" id="tabs-pane1"> <div class="ck-content" data-controller="description"> <p> The parasitic wasp,<span> </span><em>Encarsia formosa</em> , is about 1 mm long and yellow and black in color. They are delivered as pupae glued to a card, in packs of 500 or 1000. These pupae are called “black scales” and during the first week the pupae hatch by the parasitic scales gnawing their way out through a small hole.</p> <p> The hatched parasitic wasp actively searches for larvae of “white flies” to parasitize. They lay their eggs inside the host larvae (which are white). After about 14 days, these parasitized larvae turn black. After another 14 days, adult parasitic wasps hatch from the puparia.</p> <p><em>Encarsia formosa</em><span> </span>only lay eggs in the last larval stages of "white flies", they do not kill adults. Fully grown individuals can live up to 4 weeks and will therefore fly around and lay new eggs even if livestock has been released. It may therefore be an advantage to treat with insecticidal soap before the parasitic wasps are released.</p> <p> The desired temperature when setting out is above 17°C.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> The parasitic wasp is delivered as black pupae glued to cardboard. The box with the cards is opened only when the plants are infested. Hang the cards on the plants, protected from sunlight.</p> <p> <strong>Follow the fight</strong></p> <p> In the following weeks, there should be more and more “black pupae” on the plants in relation to the mealybug larvae. However, it may be necessary to spray the plant tops lightly with, for example, insecticidal soap to reduce the number of adults. </p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div>

<p>A mixture of gall midges (approx. 200) and parasitic wasps (approx. 100) against aphid infestations.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> <strong>Aphid gall midge</strong><span> </span><em>(Aphidoletes aphidimyza)</em></p> <p> The mixture contains gall midge pupae. From the pupae, adult gall midges hatch and fly out to find colonies of aphids, where they lay small red eggs. When the eggs hatch, a reddish larva (about 5 mm long) emerges. It is a real predator that kills and sucks out a large number of aphids. After about a week, it pupates in the soil, where it remains for 14 days, and so a new cycle of gall midges continues.</p> <p> <strong>The aphid parasitic weevil</strong> ( <em>Aphidius colemani</em> )</p> <p>The parasitic wasp is delivered as a mixture of cocoons and adult parasitic wasps. The parasitic wasp searches for aphids and lays eggs inside them. After about 10 days, the aphid swells up and turns into a gray-brown cocoon, remaining attached to the plant. It almost resembles papier-mâché. After about 2 weeks, a new parasitic wasp gnaws its way out of the cocoon and is ready to find new aphids.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> In case of heavy infestations, it is advantageous to give the plant a good shower of water or insecticidal soap before releasing the beneficial insects.</p> <p> The box with beneficial insects is first opened outside in the greenhouse near the infested plants. Place the box under the plants in the shade, for example under a clay pot (with holes in it). From here the insects take over the control.</p> <p> <strong>Follow the fight</strong></p> <p>The larvae of the aphid gall midge leave dead, sucked aphid shells, which can be seen on the plant. Cocoons of parasitized aphids from the parasitic wasp are visible after about 14 days. If you look at the parasitized aphid with a magnifying glass, you can see a hole. This is a newly hatched parasitic wasp that has cut itself out of the aphid.</p>