Biologiskt växtskydd

<p><meta charset="utf-8"> <span>NEMAblom - Nematodes Against Mourning Midges: one package is enough for an area of ​​20 m², or about 20 pots.</span> <meta charset="utf-8">Larger areas are best irrigated using the <a title="Birchmeier AquaNemix 1.25V - for spreading nematodes" href="https://tradgardsdags.nu/products/birchmeier-aquanemix-1-25v-for-spridning-av-nematoder" target="_blank"><strong><span style="color: #4e991d;">AquaNemix</span></strong></a> nematode spreader.<strong></strong></p> <p><em>In stock: if the order is received before Sunday, the item will be shipped the following Monday.</em></p> <p><strong>NEMAblom – A biological pest control</strong></p> <p class="p1"><span class="s1">NemaBlom offers an effective and non-toxic solution containing 1.3 - 1.5 million nematodes. These microscopic soldiers <i>actively</i> seek out and attack the larvae of the black widow spider in the soil. By preventing the larvae from developing into mosquitoes and laying eggs, NemaBlom typically eradicates the black widow spider population in just over 1 week. With each attack, a new generation of nematodes is created in the soil, ensuring continuous and long-lasting protection.</span></p> <p class="p1"><span class="s1">NemaBlom is based on the nematode Steinernema feltiae, an effective biological control agent for various pests. It can be used against infestations of:</span></p> <ul> <li>Mourning mosquitoes</li> <li>Harkness</li> <li>Flower thrips</li> <li>Miners, especially in smaller greenhouses and vegetable production<br><br></li> </ul> <p><strong>Sustainable and long-term protection solution</strong></p> <p>The nematodes in the resting stage, which corresponds to their condition when purchased, can lie dormant in the soil and wait for new midge larvae, provided that the soil is not allowed to dry out. In this way, NemaBlom provides long-term and reliable protection against midge larvae.</p> <p><strong>Product storage and durability</strong></p> <p>NemaBlom has a shelf life of 1 year from the date of production if the package is kept cool (but not below freezing). At room temperature, the package will last about 3 months. Resealed packaging retains its shelf life even if it has been opened. Note that nematodes are sensitive to sunlight, dehydration, temperatures below 0°C and above +30°C.</p> <p>Since the cold chain is broken upon delivery, it is recommended that you use the product as soon as possible after receipt.</p> <p><strong>How does it work?</strong></p> <p>The nematodes move freely in the soil and actively seek out their hosts by following substances secreted by the larvae. They attack the larvae through natural body openings, which leads to their rapid death. The nematodes multiply inside the larva, and after about 10 days a new generation of nematodes disperses to seek out and fight new larvae.</p> <p>NemaBlom can also be used preventively, as the nematodes can survive in the soil for up to 1 year.</p> <p><meta charset="utf-8"> The nematodes in NemaBlom do not affect plants, other animals or humans.</p> <p><strong>Dosage</strong></p> <p>One package of NemaBlom is enough for approximately 20 pots or 2 square meters of land.</p>

<p> NEMAmulti® biological agent for controlling larvae of several types. <meta charset="utf-8">NEMAmulti is sufficient for approximately 50 m². Larger areas can be irrigated with the help of <a href="https://tradgardsdags.nu/products/birchmeier-aquanemix-1-25v-for-spridning-av-nematoder" title="Birchmeier AquaNemix 1.25V - for spreading nematodes" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><strong><span style="color: rgb(78, 153, 29);">the AquaNemix</span></strong></a> nematode spreader.</p> <p> NEMAmulti<meta charset="utf-8"> ® is an effective agent against several types of larvae that contains 10 million live microorganisms, nematodes, which actively seek out specific larvae and kill them.</p> <p> Larvae of cabbage butterfly, gooseberry weevil, carrot fly, cabbage moth, rose petal weevil, apple weevil, sedge weevil, ear weevil and rowanberry weevil are some examples of host animals attacked by these nematodes.</p> <p> NEMAmulti is a biological non-toxic agent for those who want to grow non-toxic but need help getting rid of larvae that cause damage in your garden using nature's own method.</p> <p>These insect-parasitic nematodes actively attack specific larvae that are their host animals. They are completely harmless to children, bees and other animals and can never harm plants.</p> <p> <strong>How do you get rid of larvae?</strong></p> <p> To get rid of larvae that attack the leaves, water/shower nematode solution onto the leaves. To get rid of larvae that attack the roots, water them into the soil.</p> <p> NEMAmulti should be used when there are larvae to parasitize. The nematodes must get close to their host animal, the larva, and when treating above ground, the foliage should be wet beforehand.</p> <p> Nematodes need about +12–13 degrees for them to be active. At lower temperatures they lie inactive until it gets warm enough again.</p> <p> It is also important to choose an overcast, rainy day or evening so that the nematodes have time to enter the larvae.</p> <p> Treated soil should be kept moist after the nematodes have been watered out for a few weeks to get the best effect.</p> <p> <strong>The life cycle of nematodes</strong></p> <p>Nematodes actively enter the pest larvae through natural body openings and a process begins that kills the larva and turns it into a “nursery” for the nematodes. After a while, a new generation of nematodes has developed and comes out into the soil. The new nematodes actively search for new larvae that are host animals. This cycle continues as long as there are larvae in the soil. If there are no larvae to parasitize, the nematodes are in the same resting stage as when they are in an unopened package in the refrigerator, waiting to be used. The nematodes leave the resting stage as soon as they sense that there are host animals nearby and actively try to get inside the larva to reproduce. As long as the soil is kept moist, they can remain in the resting stage, how long is impossible to say and the nematodes gradually die off if they do not come into contact with any host animals.</p> <p> <strong>Good advice for nematode eradication</strong></p> <p>A garden sprayer of about 5 liters works well if the nozzle is set so open that a shower is formed, not so closed that it becomes a mist, because then the nematodes will be damaged.</p> <p> A watering can with a mesh that is not too tight also works well. Most watering cans have a mesh that allows the nematodes to pass through without any problems.</p> <p> AquaNemix is ​​connected to the garden hose and doses the nematodes with water directly from the tap.</p> <p> Important! Nematodes die at 30 degrees, do not order if it is or risks becoming very hot and sunny.</p> <p> Pick up the package as soon as possible when it arrives at your Post Office.</p> <p> NEMAmulti should be stored in the refrigerator, the shelf life is about one month, see date stamp.</p>

<p> Biological product against butterfly larvae in vegetable, berry, fruit and ornamental crops. Package of 30 grams.</p> <p> <span><strong>LARV protection</strong> is a biological product that is effective against butterfly larvae in crops of vegetables, berries, fruit and ornamental plants; for example, cabbage moth, cabbage butterfly, vegetable fly, frost butterfly, bird spider moth and fruit peeler.</span></p> <p><span>LAR</span> Vskydd contains the naturally occurring bacteria<span> </span><em>Bacillus thuringiensis</em><span> </span>which acts in the larva's digestive tract after the larva has eaten treated leaves and other plant parts. LARVA protection is effective against all types of butterfly larvae.</p> <p> <strong>Butterfly larvae can be identified by a few characteristics:</strong></p> <p> - All butterfly larvae have a head, biting mouthparts and 3 pairs of thoraxes.</p> <p> - On the hind body segments they also have short, soft so-called abdominal feet that resemble suction cups. The last pair of abdominal feet are sometimes called anal feet.</p> <p> - Butterfly larvae usually have five pairs of legs (including the anal feet). Within the family of moths, larvae have only two pairs of legs. In mining butterfly larvae, the legs are usually very small and can sometimes be missing.</p> <p> - If the caterpillar has 6 or more pairs of legs, it is a plant mite, and must be controlled in other ways, for example with a natural pyrethroid.</p> <p> <strong>Use</strong></p> <p><strong></strong>When treating, it is important that the entire plant is covered with spray liquid so that the larva easily comes into contact with the product. The best effect is obtained if LARVA protection is used against small larvae. The larvae stop eating after a couple of hours and die after a couple of days. Larvae that are unprotected on the plant are the easiest to treat. Those that spin themselves, crawl into buds or fruits are difficult to treat.</p> <p> Avoid using LARVA protection in sunlight as the product is broken down by sunlight. Spray in dry weather. Rain and irrigation will wash off the product. At temperatures below 12–15 °C, the effect of LARVA protection is reduced as butterfly larvae become less active. It may take up to 2–5 days after treatment for the larvae to die. The treatment may need to be repeated, with at least 7 days between each treatment.</p>

<p><meta charset="utf-8"> <span>NEMAsnigel® - Nematodes Against Snails: 2 sizes of packages with approximately 12 or 30 million nematodes, sufficient for an area of ​​40 or 100 m².<meta charset="utf-8"> Larger areas are best irrigated using the <a href="https://tradgardsdags.nu/products/birchmeier-aquanemix-1-25v-for-spridning-av-nematoder" title="Birchmeier AquaNemix 1.25V - for spreading nematodes" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><strong><span style="color: rgb(78, 153, 29);">AquaNemix</span></strong></a> nematode spreader.</span><br><br> NEMAsnigel® is a biological and effective agent in the fight against killer slugs.<br><br> <strong>Get rid of both large and small snails</strong><br><br> <span>Nematodes against snails are a biological means of getting rid of snails. The nematodes enter the snails through their natural body openings, where they then parasitize and use them as a "nursery", which leads to the snail dying and the nematodes multiplying.</span><br> <br><span>There is no "best treatment time" to use this product against snails because a snail can lay up to 400 eggs from spring to autumn. A good way to get rid of snails when using nematodes is low pressure, preferably in combination with rain, as both nematodes and snails thrive best in moist environments.</span><br><br> <span>Once the number of nematodes has decreased, a new generation emerges from the parasitized snail and searches for new hosts. After about six weeks, the number of nematodes will decrease if the number of host snails also decreases.</span><br><br> <strong>How to use NEMAsnigel®</strong><br><span></span></p> <p> <span><strong>Get rid of young snails:</strong></span></p> <p><meta charset="utf-8"> <span>The nematodes are watered into the soil to parasitize young snails that are still underground. This method results in fewer young individuals having the chance to lay eggs per season</span> , which is otherwise about 400 per season and snail.</p> <p> <strong>Get rid of adult snails:</strong></p> <p>Offer the adult snails something they like, mixed with nematodes, and the nematodes will enter the snails directly. Porridge that has cooled and mixed with nematodes and something attractive to the snails, such as beer, citrus fruits, dead snails or bananas, works well. The porridge forms a protective film that protects the nematodes from drying out. Place in appropriate quantities in shady places.</p> <p> Feel free to combine these methods to get the most out of NEMA snails.</p> <p> <strong>Additional Treatment Advice</strong></p> <p> The nematodes should be dissolved in water. Start by making a concentrate which is then diluted with plain water to the amount of solution needed to water the surface to be treated.</p> <p> First, remove some of the packaging or concentrate for “snail porridge” if you want to use that method. The rest of the nematodes are further diluted so that there is enough for the area to be treated.</p> <p>Avoid watering the nematodes when it is hot and sunny. A rainy day, early morning or evening is recommended.</p> <p> A regular watering can can be used, but on some watering cans the spout can become clogged and you need to drill the holes out a bit.</p> <p> AquaNemix is ​​a very good tool. AquaNemix is ​​connected directly to the water hose and doses the nematodes from the container on the handle.</p> <p> A garden sprayer or degreasing sprayer that usually holds about 5 liters can also be used. It is important that the nozzle on the sprayer is so open that it becomes a shower and not a mist. If the nozzle is so closed that it becomes a mist, it is so cramped that the nematodes are damaged. Water thoroughly so that the nematodes get down properly into the soil.</p>

<div class="m-product-short-description ck-content clearfix" data-controller="description--short" itemprop="description"> <p>Beneficial insect effective against thrips, both adults and nymphs. Available in packs of 100 or 500.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> <em>Orius majusculus</em><span> </span>is a Swedish species of the genus Orius in the family Orius beetles. Orius beetles are the most effective beneficial insects that can be released against thrips, they take both adults and all larval stages of most thrips species.</p> <p> Orius beetles primarily eat thrips. An adult beetle can ingest 20 thrips a day, but they can also eat other pests such as spider mites, dwarf mites, aphids and mealybugs. If you only have an infestation of pests other than thrips, you should instead use beneficial insects that effectively target those pests.</p> <p> <strong>Product description</strong></p> <p> The Orius beetles are delivered in a package with a mixture of adults and nymphs distributed in buckwheat husks. It is available in sizes of 100 or 500.</p> <p>When attacking, about 5-10 rams/m ² are used. How many rams you need depends on how many and how big the plants are, and the size of the attack. If the attack is severe on a large number of plants, many rams are needed, and for minor attacks and few plants, a smaller amount can be sufficient.</p> <p> Generally speaking, it is better to release the rams in several rounds than to release many at one time.</p> <p> However, note that there are some, more unusual, tropical thrips species that are difficult to control, where neither beneficial animals nor chemicals have a good effect. They often come home with the houseplants, are dark in color and sometimes have white stripes. One example is <em>Echinothrips,</em> which is particularly difficult to control.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>The Orius beetles are sprinkled on the foliage of plants with thrips infestation. For plants with narrow leaves, or where it is otherwise difficult to place the beneficial insects on the leaves, you can buy bioboxes to hang on the plant ( <em>see related product below</em> ). Alternatively, make your own paper cones that you pour the beetles into and place on the plants.</p> <p> The adult beetles can fly and spread easily in the plants. The nymphs can walk between the plants as long as the leaves touch each other. The Orius beetles are sometimes difficult to find among the plants, as they like to hide in the nooks and crannies and in the buckwheat husks they are transported with.</p> <p> Orius beetles can be used both outside in the greenhouse and indoors. Indoors they do not seek out pantries, bedding or similar, but since they can fly, it is a matter of taste whether you wish to use them inside. It is not recommended to use them outdoors as they will easily fly away.</p> <p>Orius beetles are active at temperatures between about 16°C and 35°C. They can also survive on pollen from flowering plants. Therefore, flowering plants can be an advantage when using Orius. Long day lengths, over 14 hours per day, are necessary for Orius to reproduce, but they also survive shorter day lengths.</p> <p> Orius beetles are sensitive to various pesticides and one should therefore be careful with release after using, for example, provado/provanto sticks. The plants can be sprayed with soap before releasing Orius, in which case it needs to have dried up before release.</p> <p>Feel free to combine Orius with a set of<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/11-vita-flygare---mjolloss/10-gula-klisterskivor/" target="_blank"><u><em>yellow sticky discs</em></u></a> . You can also combine with<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/11-vita-flygare---mjolloss/49-swirskii-rovkvalster/" target="_blank"><em><u>swirskii predatory mites</u></em></a><span> </span>or<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/15-trips/17-tripsrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><em><u>thrips predatory mites</u></em></a><span> </span>in small bags. They work well as a complement to Orius and as a preventative against new infestations, for example after completing treatment with Orius.</p> <p> <strong>Storage</strong></p> <p> Orius should be distributed to the plants immediately upon receipt. In case of emergency, they can be stored for a couple of days at 8-10°C.</p> </div>

<p> Adhesive discs for registering pests, 10 or 25 pieces.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>When using biological control, it is very important to register the first pests in the greenhouse. The sooner you can see which pest is attacking, the sooner you can order beneficial insects to start the control. These yellow sticky discs are used specifically for registering and capturing leaf miners, midges, thrips, aphids and more.</p> <p> The yellow adhesive discs are hung where the pests and plants are, for example between the plants or on a flower stick in the pot. Available in packs of 10 or 25 adhesive discs.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> The yellow side with glue is turned outwards when installed, after which the protective paper is removed. The pests are attracted to the yellow color and then stick to the glue. Replace them often, especially if many pests stick to the disc. Examine your adhesive discs with a magnifying glass or under a microscope to find out what pests you have in your greenhouse.</p>

<p> Californicus predatory mites in bags for preventive control of spider mites, 10 small bags.<br></p> <p><em></em> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> <em>Neoseiulus (Amblyseius) californicus</em> is a predatory mite used in the preventive control of spider mites. They are supplied in 10 small bags. These are hung out in the plants before, or when, spider mites are observed.</p> <p>Californicus is a 0.5mm large, transparent to light yellow predatory mite. It feeds, for example, on the common spider mite species, the greenhouse spider mite, which can affect both ornamental and vegetable plants.</p> <p> Californicus is a hardy predatory mite that can also survive on other mites and pollen. They are therefore well suited to use as a preventative against spider mites, as they can be released even before spider infestations are observed.</p> <p> Compared to the commonly used spider mite <a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/14-spinnkvalster/14-spinnrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><u><em>Phytoseiulus persimilis,</em></u></a> Californicus can handle a wider temperature range. They can be used at temperatures between 8 and 35°C, with an optimum of 20-33°C. They are also less sensitive to drier environments.</p> <p> Californicus is also used to control red spider mites, such as citrus and fruit tree mites, which the common spider mite does not attack.</p> <p>However, in the event of widespread infestation of greenhouse spider mites, it is recommended<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/14-spinnkvalster/14-spinnrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><em><u>spider mite</u></em></a> ( <em>Phytoseiulus persimilis),</em> which is then more effective.<em></em></p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> It is advisable to plant Californicus early in the growing season (in greenhouses in May/June) before the spider mites become too established.</p> <p> The bags are hung on the plant, on branches or leaf stalks. Use 1 bag per plant, or about 2-3 bags/m² .</p> <p> The predatory mites will get out of the bag and up over the plant. The bags will last 4-6 weeks. The bag does not need to be perforated further, it has small holes where the mites can come out.</p> <p> Avoid the bag coming into contact with the soil and hang it out of direct sunlight.</p> <p> The predatory mites should be released immediately after receipt, but can be stored for a couple of days at 15 degrees.</p>

<p class="p1"> <span class="s1">Irrigation dispenser for nematodes. The well-designed dosing system ensures a precise mixture of water and nematodes.</span></p> <ul class="ul1"> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Recommended water pressure 1.5 bar to max 5 bar</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span><span class="s3">Correct dosage of nematodes (2%)</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Water flow 14 liters/min at 4bar</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Neutral position for irrigation without nematode interference</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Rotatable handle</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Quick connection for water hose</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Quick coupling Gardena type</span> </li> <li class="li2"> <span class="s2"></span> <span class="s3">Maintenance-free and easy to clean</span> </li> <li class="li3"> <span class="s1">Simple and easy to spread nematodes</span><span class="s1"></span> </li> </ul> <h4> <span class="s1">Instructional video</span> </h4> <p><iframe title="YouTube video player" nosrc="https://www.youtube.com/embed/W8GiPBtU6gY?si=cATQYju1b49A2GsH" height="315" width="560" allowfullscreen="" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" frameborder="0"></iframe></p>

<p> Beneficial animal for controlling ear weevil larvae. For outdoor use. In packages of 10 million or 50 million.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Nematodes<span> </span><em>(Heterorhabditis sp.)</em><span> </span>Supplied in quantities of 10 million or 50 million in a mixture of fine clay. Nematodes, also known as roundworms, are microscopically small. They are found naturally in the soil, but usually not in large enough numbers.</p> <p> After watering the product, the nematodes actively search the soil for earwig larvae. When a larva is found, it is infected by nematodes and dies. Infected larvae turn ochre. The dead larva then acts as a kind of “envelope” in which the nematodes reproduce. These nematodes can only live on insect larvae and therefore do not harm plants.</p> <p> <strong>Treatment times</strong></p> <p>Since only the larval stages of ear weevil are infected by the nematodes, it is important to coordinate the timing of treatment with the ear weevil larval life cycle. In the garden and other treatment areas, treatment can be done in<span> </span><u><em>May/June<span> </span></em></u>as well as in<span> </span><em><u>August/September</u></em> .</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> <em><u>Use at a soil temperature between 12 and 25°C for effective treatment.</u></em></p> <p><strong></strong> The contents of the bag are dissolved in water and watered onto the soil near the affected plants. The soil should be kept slightly moist for a week after treatment.</p> <p> 10 million is enough for a treatment of approximately 10-20 m² , and 50 million to approximately 50-100 m² .</p> <p> <strong>Follow the fight</strong></p> <p>The control of ear weevil larvae is very effective, but as the adult weevils can live for over a year, eggs will continue to be produced during the first year. Therefore, collect any adult ear weevils at night with the help of a lantern, and follow the control in the soil. 2-3 weeks after the treatment, you should be able to find dead brown larvae along the roots of the plant.</p> <p> <em>Tip!</em><br> For easier deployment, please use a<span> </span><em><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/26-tillbehor/44-nematodutvattnare/" target="_blank"><u>nematode dewaterer</u></a></em> !</p>

<p> Beneficial animal against infestation by the false scale insect, <em>Coccus hesperidum.</em> The parasitic tick is not effective against other scale insect species, so it is important to determine the species of scale insect causing the infestation. In a pack of 25 pieces.</p> <p> <em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em><br><br> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Scale infestations can be difficult to control. It is not always easy to spot scale insects as they are stuck in one place. Their colour can blend in well with the plant and hide on stems and leaf veins. The first sign of infestation is often the honeydew secreted by the scale insects. It leaves a sticky film on and around the plant, for example on the window or window sill. In the honeydew, sooty mold fungi can easily grow, which gives the plant a black coating. Scale insects suck plant sap, like other lice. The infestation can lead to discoloured leaves and stunted growth.</p> <p>Scale insects, unlike aphids, are immobile for almost their entire life. As small larvae, they find a suitable place on the plant where they then suck their food. Characteristic for them is the "shield" they have over their body. It protects and makes them difficult to fight. Under the shield, the female can lay up to thousands of eggs. The larvae then crawl out to find their own places on the plant to attach themselves to.</p> <p> There are many different species of scale insects. They can be divided into "true scale insects" and "false scale insects". The different groups are distinguished by the fact that the true scale insects have an external shield that can be removed from the body. The false scale insects do not have an external shield, instead their dorsal skin grows and hardens, forming a shield. This is attached to the louse and cannot be removed from the body.</p> <p><em>When biologically controlling scale insects, it is very important to determine which species of scale insect is causing the infestation. The beneficial insects are host-specific and will not parasitize any species other than the one they are adapted to.</em></p> <p> One of the most common scale species on houseplants is the orange wax scale,<span> </span><em>Coccus hesperidum,</em> a so-called false scale. The "shield" is yellowish-brown transparent, often with a darker "H"-like pattern in color. It is flat and asymmetrically oval, about 3-5 mm in size. It is often located near leaf veins, but can also be found on leaf stalks and young shoots. This species generally secretes a lot of honeydew. Examples of plants it attacks are citrus plants, ivy, ficus, laurel and camellia. The host plants are often woody.</p> <p>For biological control of the orange wax scale,<span> </span><em>Coccus hesperidum</em> , the parasitic wasp <em>Microterys</em> is used<span> </span><em>flavus</em> / <em>nietneri</em> . It is an approximately 2 mm long stingray with a yellowish/brownish body and black and white striped antennae.</p> <p> The wasp lays eggs inside the scale insect, and the larva lives there for all five larval stages. As an adult, it then eats its way out of the scale insect through a small round hole, which can be seen from above if you look closely. The wasp lays about 10 eggs a day, during the two months that are their maximum lifespan. The adult wasps also eat the scale insect, a process known as host feeding.<span> </span><em>Microterys</em> actively seeks out scale insects on infested plants. It takes middle and older stages of the orange wax scale insect.</p> <p>When<span> </span><em>Microterys</em><span> </span>is only effective against the orange wax scale, <em>Coccus hesperidum</em> , it is very important to identify the species of scale infesting your plants. If it is a different species of scale, <em>Microterys</em> will not be effective.<span> </span></p> <p><b>User manual</b></p> <p> To<span> </span>To be able to combat <em>Microterys</em> effectively, certain conditions need to be met.</p> <p> Release should only take place between March and October. The parasitic wasp needs a long day, meaning that the day consists of more light hours than dark hours.</p> <p> For the stingray to be active, a temperature of at least 20 degrees is required. Temperature has a major impact on the stingray's development time. At 25°C, development from egg to adult takes about 23 days.</p> <p> Recommended dosage is 5-10 pieces/plant. Treatment is done 1-2 times, two weeks apart.</p> <p>The package is opened at the infested plants, the stingers seek out the scale insects themselves.</p> <p> Treat all plants that have had contact with the infested plant. For example, all those that have been in the same window. Thoroughly wash the surface where the infested plant has been, such as the windowsill and window.</p> <p> <strong>Follow the treatment</strong></p> <p> It may be difficult to see a clear effect of the treatment, as the scale insects still remain on the plant after<span> </span><em>Microterys</em><span> </span>has parasitized it. After 10-14 days (depending on temperature), a dark ring can be distinguished on closer observation under the "shield" of the aphid. These are the excrement of the parasitic scale, which then indicates that the scale has become parasitized. At a later stage, the exit hole from the adult parasitic scale can also be discovered as a small, round hole in the "shield". In the event of successful treatment, the new shoots and petioles that are formed should be free from infestation.</p>

<p>Beneficial organisms for controlling wool lice. In packs of 25 or 100.</p> <p><em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em></p> <p><em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Both adults and larvae of the woolly ladybug,<span>&nbsp;</span><i>Cryptolaemus</i> , eats all species of mealybugs. It is commonly used in biological control on citrus trees and ornamental plants. The adult ladybug is about 4 mm long and the larva is slightly larger. The larva is very similar to the mealybug larva. The brown-black adult ladybug lays its eggs between the mealybugs, and they hatch after about 8 days.</p> <p>Woolly ladybugs thrive best at temperatures of about 20 degrees or more, and at a relative humidity of about 60% or higher. At temperatures below 20 degrees, golden-eyed dragonfly larvae ( <em>Chrysoperla</em> ) are recommended instead, to control woolly aphids.</p> <p>If the plant is treated with chemicals, this can harm the ladybugs.</p> <p><strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>Open the jar near the infested plant and place the jar next to the plant. It is best to carefully remove the paper strips from the jar and place them on the leaves near the mealybugs. It is also possible to use a paintbrush and carefully brush the ladybugs off the leaves.</p> <p>The adult ladybugs can fly. They will be somewhat confused after release and want to fly away. To prevent this, you can release them in the dark, which makes them calmer and less likely to fly. If you want to further ensure that they stay on the plant, you can wrap the plant in a fine net or similar.</p> <p><strong>Storage</strong></p> <p>Put the ladybugs out the same day they arrive. If that is not possible, store at 15-20 degrees in the dark for a maximum of two days.</p> <p>Supplied in packs of 25 or 100.</p>

<p> Omnivorous beneficial animals for soil-dwelling pests such as sandflies, water flies and thrips species. 2500 pieces or 25000 pieces.</p> <p> <em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Ground-dwelling mites,<span> </span><em>Hypoaspis</em> is a small beneficial insect that lives in and on the soil. As an adult, it is about 1 mm long and brown in color. It feeds on many different pests that have one or more stages in the soil, such as gnats, water flies, thrips, chicken mites and collembolans (springtails). Both adults and nymphs are active in pest control. The soil-dwelling mite is fast and works actively already when released, but since it only fights pests in the soil, it can take a few weeks before the effect is noticeable. 2500 soil-dwelling mites are enough for up to 10 m ² .</p> <p> The soil-dwelling mite will remain in the houseplant as long as there is food, but it will die out as soon as the food supply disappears for an extended period, or if the soil dries out significantly.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>The animals should be released immediately after reception, where control is desired. They can be used year-round at temperatures above 15 degrees. They thrive best in temperatures between 15 and 30 degrees.<span> </span><em>Please note that they cannot withstand temperatures below 12 degrees</em> .</p> <p> If necessary, they can be stored for a shorter period before being released at a temperature of around 15 degrees.</p> <p> The variants of the product contain either 2500 pieces or 25000 pieces of Hypoaspis.</p>

<div data-controller="description--short" class="m-product-short-description ck-content clearfix" itemprop="description"> <p>Swirskii mites, beneficial against young stages of mealybugs (whiteflies) and thrips. In a pack of 10 small bags.</p> <p><em></em> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> Protect your plants against thrips and whitefly attacks with swirskii predatory mites.</p> <p> <em>Amblyseius</em><span> </span>( <em>Typhlodromips</em> )<span> </span><em>swirskii<span> </span></em>is a predatory mite about 0.5 mm in size that is used preventively and in the initial stages of attacks by several pests. They mainly take thrips and mealybugs (whiteflies), but in the absence of other food they can also take spider mites and survive on pollen.</p> <p> Swirskii are mobile and spread quickly across plants as long as the leaves touch each other. They can change in color from dark red to light yellow, depending on what they feed on. For example, if they eat mealybugs and thrips, they become more orange in color.</p> <p>Predatory mites like warm and humid conditions and work best at temperatures above 18 degrees. The optimal temperature is 25-28°C, but they can handle both cooler and warmer temperatures. If the temperature drops below 15 degrees, the predatory mite becomes inactive.</p> <p> Swirskii mainly feeds on the younger life stages of both thrips and mealybugs. They can eat up to 5 thrips larvae per day. They are effective against the thrips species commonly found in greenhouses and indoor potted plants.</p> <p> However, note that there are some, more unusual, tropical thrips species that are difficult to control, where neither beneficial insects nor chemicals have a good effect. They often come home with houseplants, are dark in color and sometimes have white stripes. One example is <em>Echinothrips,</em> which is particularly difficult to control.</p> <p>It is often an advantage to combine swirskii with<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/15-trips/16-oriusbaggar/" target="_blank"><em><u>orius beetles</u></em></a><span> </span>against adult thrips, and<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/11-vita-flygare---mjolloss/9-nyttodjur-mot-vita-flygare/" target="_blank"><u><em>Encarsia</em></u></a><span> </span>and<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/11-vita-flygare---mjolloss/10-gula-klisterskivor/" target="_blank"><em><u>adhesive discs</u></em></a><span> </span>against whiteflies. But note that swirskii mites should not be combined with<span> </span><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/15-trips/17-tripsrovkvalster/" target="_blank"><em><u>thrips predatory mites</u></em></a><span> </span>(Amblyseius cucumeris), because swirskii then eats the thrips predatory mites.</p> <p> Swirskii predatory mites come in packs of 10 small bags.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>The bags are hung on the plants on side branches or leaf stalks, preferably protected from direct sunlight (under the leaves).</p> <p> Use 1 bag per plant or 2-3 bags/ <span lang="DA"><span>m²</span></span> .</p> <p> Over the next 4-6 weeks, the predatory mites will move out of the bag and onto the plant. The bag does not need to be opened or pierced, it already has small holes where the mites can come out.</p> <p> The predatory mites should be released immediately after receipt, but can be stored for a couple of days at 15 degrees.</p> </div>

<p> Beneficial animal for controlling garden beetle larvae in the lawn. For outdoor use. In packages of 50 million or 250 million.<br></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> Garden borer larvae,<span> </span><em>Phyllopertha horticola</em> , can cause significant damage to lawns. However, they can be controlled with the help of nematodes, microscopic roundworms, which are watered over the lawn surface. They are sold in packages of 50 million or 250 million nematodes, which is enough to treat 50-100 m² or 300-500 m² of area respectively.</p> <p>The adult garden borers are usually seen during May-June, and only for a short period, when they lay their eggs in the grass. Characteristic of the garden borer is that it flies low over the grass, on sunny mornings. The eggs that are laid begin to hatch from June onwards. It is the larvae that do the damage to the lawn, as they eat the roots of the grass. They grow during the season and overwinter in the soil. The following spring they pupate into a new generation of adult garden borers.</p> <p> The garden borer larvae feed on the roots of the grass near the surface. The grass becomes dry and yellowish and may begin to loosen from the soil surface. The larvae also attract birds and other animals, which can also destroy the lawn as they root around in the grass to find food.</p> <p>When the nematodes are watered into the soil, they actively search for a suitable host in the form of a garden borer larva. They penetrate it and infect it. Bacteria from the nematodes kill the larva. The nematodes multiply inside the infected larva, and then leave it to search for new larvae.</p> <p> <strong>Treatment times</strong></p> <p> <em><u>The optimal time for treatment is from late July to mid-September</u></em> . During this period, the larvae are small and close to the surface at the grass roots.<span> </span><em><u>Treat approximately 4 weeks after observation of the adult insects</u></em> , to catch the first larvae when the eggs hatch.</p> <p> Nematodes can primarily control the small, newly hatched larval stages of garden borers. Since nematodes also depend on soil heat to work, they are most effective for a shorter period during the summer and early fall.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong>The contents of the bag are dissolved in water while stirring, and then watered over the surface. Use the solution with the nematodes immediately after mixing.</p> <p> Use the nematodes only during the appropriate treatment period to achieve an effective result. The treatment is mainly effective against the smaller larval stages of the garden borer.<span> </span><em><u>Optimal soil temperature is above 12 degrees for four weeks after treatment to ensure that the nematodes are active</u></em> . At lower temperatures, or larger larval stages, a reduced effect can be expected.</p> <p> As the nematodes live in the water film between the soil particles, it is important that the soil is kept moist during treatment. If the treatment surface is dry, it is watered preventively before treatment. Also water after treatment to thoroughly rinse the nematodes into the soil. The surface should then be kept moist for at least two weeks after treatment.</p> <p>Treatment should not be carried out during heavy rain as there is a risk of washing away the nematodes.</p> <p> The nematodes should be watered out early in the morning, in the evening or on a cloudy day, as they are sensitive to UV light.<br></p> <p> <em>Tip!</em><br> For easier deployment, please use a<span> </span><em><a href="https://shop.nyttodjur.se/shop/26-tillbehor/44-nematodutvattnare/" target="_blank"><u>nematode dewaterer</u></a></em> !</p>

<p>Effective beneficial insects against spider mites. In packs of 500 or 2000.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> The spider mite, <em>Phytoseiulus persimilis</em> <em>,<span> </span></em>is effective for controlling spider mites. The predatory mites are 0.5 mm long and reddish-orange in color. The product is available in two sizes, approximately 500 pieces or approximately 2000 pieces, mixed with granules (vermiculite).<br><br> In the first place, predatory mites should only be released after an infestation has been confirmed.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> Self-check upon receipt:</p> <p> The bottle of predatory mites should be opened first at the infested plants. If the spider mites are not visible in the lid, carefully pour some of the substrate onto a white A4 piece of paper. The predatory mites can then be clearly seen running across the surface of the paper.</p> <p>The bottle is held horizontally. Swirl the bottle gently so that the predatory mites are evenly distributed in the granules. Sprinkle small portions on the upper side of the leaves. These should be kept moist so that the granules are retained for a while and the mites can come around and look for prey on the plant. Note that the predatory mites can also be used outdoors on, for example, strawberries and raspberries, etc.</p> <p> <strong>Follow the fight</strong></p> <p> Every third day, examine the leaves by carefully turning them over and looking at the underside with a magnifying glass (10x magnification). Where spider mites are present, red predatory mites should also be visible. If this is the case, a reduction in spider mites should be visible after 2-3 weeks. In hot or dry climates, predatory mites can be helped by showering the plants during the day.</p>

<p> Beneficial insects for controlling the larvae of the black widow mosquito, 10 million or 50 million pcs.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Nematodes, also known as roundworms, are microscopically small. After the product is watered down, the nematodes actively search for blackleg larvae in the soil. The larvae are infected by the nematodes and die. The dead larva acts as a “shell” in which the nematodes can reproduce. These nematodes can only live on insect larvae and therefore do not harm plants. The nematodes are supplied in quantities of 10 million or 50 million in a mixture of fine clay.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> The contents of the bag are dissolved in water and watered onto the potting soil. All plants in the same space where the infestation was found should be treated. The soil should be kept slightly moist for a week after treatment.</p> <p> The best effect is achieved at a soil temperature of 20-25 degrees.</p> <p> 10 million is enough to treat 10-20 large pots or an area of ​​10-20 m². . 50 million is enough for about 50-100 m² .</p> <p> <strong>Follow the treatment</strong></p> <p>The nematodes only control the larval stages in the soil. Therefore, there is no immediate reduction in the number of adult mosquitoes until after 2-3 weeks when the next generation of mosquitoes in the soil is controlled. By also hanging yellow sticky discs, the adult mosquito can be caught and a faster effect can be achieved.</p>

<p>Beneficial animal against mealybug/"white fly" infestation, in packs of 500 or 1000 pieces.</p> <p> <em>The product cannot be ordered during the winter.</em></p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em> </p> <div class="modules m-product trailing-trip" data-controller="9"> <div class="m-product m-product-additional-info"> <div class="toggle-content t-panel-clean m-product-additional-info-content"> <div class="pane active m-product-additional-info description clearfix" id="tabs-pane1"> <div class="ck-content" data-controller="description"> <p> The parasitic wasp,<span> </span><em>Encarsia formosa</em> , is about 1 mm long and yellow and black in color. They are delivered as pupae glued to a card, in packs of 500 or 1000. These pupae are called “black scales” and during the first week the pupae hatch by the parasitic scales gnawing their way out through a small hole.</p> <p> The hatched parasitic wasp actively searches for larvae of “white flies” to parasitize. They lay their eggs inside the host larvae (which are white). After about 14 days, these parasitized larvae turn black. After another 14 days, adult parasitic wasps hatch from the puparia.</p> <p><em>Encarsia formosa</em><span> </span>only lay eggs in the last larval stages of "white flies", they do not kill adults. Fully grown individuals can live up to 4 weeks and will therefore fly around and lay new eggs even if livestock has been released. It may therefore be an advantage to treat with insecticidal soap before the parasitic wasps are released.</p> <p> The desired temperature when setting out is above 17°C.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p> The parasitic wasp is delivered as black pupae glued to cardboard. The box with the cards is opened only when the plants are infested. Hang the cards on the plants, protected from sunlight.</p> <p> <strong>Follow the fight</strong></p> <p> In the following weeks, there should be more and more “black pupae” on the plants in relation to the mealybug larvae. However, it may be necessary to spray the plant tops lightly with, for example, insecticidal soap to reduce the number of adults. </p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div>

<p>Beneficial organism against aphid infestation. In a pack of 500 pieces.</p> <p><em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Aphid lion is the nickname for the larva of the golden-eyed dragonfly, <em>Chrysoperla</em> .<em>&nbsp;</em>The larva lives up to its name as it is a really effective predator, with aphids as its main food. It is naturally occurring in Sweden and is very good at catching aphids. During its life cycle it can eat up to 600 of them. The aphid lion is used to advantage in cases of heavy infestations in a limited area, so-called "hot spots".</p> <p>It pinches the aphid between its cheekbones and sucks the aphid out. The nearest aphids are warned, and then fall off the plant. As this can make control more difficult, it is recommended to put a fine net around the plant, which keeps both aphids and aphid lions in place. The larva grows from 2-3 mm to about 1 cm during the 2 weeks that it eats aphids.</p> <p>Works best in low cultures.</p> <p>Delivered in packages of 500 in a small carton.</p> <p><strong>User manual</strong></p> <p>When receiving the delivery, the white protection on the cardboard box should be torn off. Gently tap the back so that the larvae fall out onto the plant. There is one larva in each compartment. If you are going to put them on different plants, only pull off part of the protection so that they do not all fall out onto the same plant.</p> <p>Should be put out immediately after receipt but can be stored for a few days at 8-10 degrees.</p>

<p>Fragrance for catching raspberries in the berry orchard. 1 capsule for use in a raspberry trap.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p> Raspberry meadows<span> </span><em>(Byturus tomentosus)</em><span> </span>can cause great damage to raspberries and blackberries. The adult beetle overwinters in the soil and wakes up in April. It then feeds on leaves, buds and pollen. When the temperature rises to 12-15 degrees, it begins to lay eggs in the raspberry flowers. The larva hatches and feeds on the ripe berries. It hides inside the berry, which makes it difficult to detect before the berry is picked.</p> <p> The trap has two ways of attracting raspberry flies:</p> <p> 1. The trap looks like a large raspberry flower with white crossed “wings”, and is designed to attract the raspberry weevil. When the raspberry weevil flies into the crossed white “wings”, they fall into a funnel and underneath it is a container of soapy water that prevents the raspberry weevil from getting out.</p> <p>2. It contains a scent that attracts the raspberry moth. To ensure a good catch, the specific scent for raspberry moths should be added to a special container on top of the trap.</p> <p> The trap comes with 1 capsule of fragrance and a special net to cover the funnel, so that bumblebees and bees do not fall down and get caught.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong> The trap should be hung 4-6 weeks before flowering (April-May). It should be hung 1-1.5 meters above the ground. Fill with water and a few drops of soap or washing-up liquid. Clean up around the trap so that it is clearly visible and easily accessible.</p> <p> The raspberry leafhopper can also attack early autumn raspberries. Remember to buy extra fragrance for this period, so you have full good coverage.</p> <p> One trap covers an area of ​​up to 250 m ² .</p>

<p> Trap with scent (kairomone) to catch raspberry flies in the berry orchard. In a package of 1 trap including scent 1 capsule.</p> <p> <em>Orders placed by Sunday evening will be shipped the following Tuesday.</em></p> <p>Raspberry meadows<span> </span><em>(Byturus tomentosus)</em><span> </span>can cause great damage to raspberries and blackberries. The adult beetle overwinters in the soil and wakes up in April. It then feeds on leaves, buds and pollen. When the temperature rises to 12-15 degrees, it begins to lay eggs in the raspberry flowers. The larva hatches and feeds on the ripe berries. It hides inside the berry, which makes it difficult to detect before the berry is picked.</p> <p> The trap has two ways of attracting raspberry flies:</p> <p> 1. The trap looks like a large raspberry flower with white crossed “wings”, and is designed to attract the raspberry weevil. When the raspberry weevil flies into the crossed white “wings”, they fall into a funnel and underneath it is a container of soapy water that prevents the raspberry weevil from getting out.</p> <p>2. It contains a scent that attracts the raspberry moth. To ensure a good catch, the specific scent for raspberry moths should be added to a special container on top of the trap.</p> <p> The trap comes with 1 capsule of fragrance and a special net to cover the funnel, so that bumblebees and bees do not fall down and get caught.</p> <p> <strong>User manual</strong></p> <p><strong></strong> The trap should be hung 4-6 weeks before flowering (April-May). It should be hung 1-1.5 meters above the ground. Fill with water and a few drops of soap or washing-up liquid. Clean up around the trap so that it is clearly visible and easily accessible.</p> <p> The raspberry leafhopper can also attack early autumn raspberries. Remember to buy extra fragrance for this period, so you have full good coverage.</p> <p> One trap covers an area of ​​up to 250 ^m2</p>